PUFF PUFF

Sipping tea and making friends on an 85-hour Indian train odyssey

Quartz india
Quartz india

If all journeys are teachers, a journey to India may well be the greatest of them all. As Kurt Vonnegut said, “Bizarre travel plans are dancing lessons from God.” It was in search of a new dance that I purchased a one-way ticket for the longest train trip in India.

One

Indian Railways train #15906—the Dibrugarh-Kanyakumari Vivek Express—travels 4,273 kilometres as it winds its way from the northeastern corner of Assam to the southernmost tip of mainland India, an 85-hour odyssey that gives it the prestigious title of the longest train ride in India, by both time and distance. It departs Dibrugarh at 10:45 pm on Saturday and arrives in Kanyakumari at around 11 am Wednesday—three days and four nights.

Train #15906 crosses Assam, West Bengal, Bihar, Odisha, Andhra Pradesh, Kerala and Tamil Nadu on its 4,273km journey
Train #15906 crosses Assam, West Bengal, Bihar, Odisha, Andhra Pradesh, Kerala, and Tamil Nadu on its 4,273-km journey.

The first part of the journey is in darkness, and making your bed and meeting neighbours are the only activities. When the sun rises, the lovely hill station of Diphu, in Assam, slides by, shrouded in a light fog.

The train itself is 21 cars long, and fully loaded, carrying over 1,800 people—three or four times the capacity of a modern jetliner, or perhaps equal to the population of a small town. There are four classes of accommodation on the train: 2 and 3 tier AC (two or three levels of bunks), sleeper (also 3 tier, but no air conditioning) and unreserved (floor to ad hoc hammock… anything goes). There is also a pantry car with a kitchen, and various luggage and speciality cars, plus an electric locomotive.

Bathroom facilities are a bit grim, and you can forget about a proper shower. Tip: pack baby-wipes and hand sanitiser.

That sinking feeling.
That sinking feeling.

The conductor verifies my ticket, and I quiz him for trivia. He searches through the jumbled mass of loose paper in his lap, and it turns out I’m the only person doing the entire 4,273 km trip, passengers or staff. I’m haunting #15906 on this run.

So, what is there to do for 85 hours on a train? No shortage of things, it turns out, especially shopping.

The train is plied by vendors and vagabonds of all kinds, at all hours. You can buy bracelets, batteries, or donate to a beggar, procure wristwatches, wicker-ware, a new wallet or mouthwash, invest in a cellphone, a bedsheet, a comb or a set of headphones, and purchase food ranging from bananas to biryani, eggs hardboiled or omelette-ized, idli, vada, tomato soup, water or chocolate, soft drinks (but no booze) and a 100 varieties of chaat, a cornucopia of snacks. The train is a rolling street market, complete with the odd acrobatic act tumbling deftly down the aisle, and occasionally punctuated by the two sharp claps of a hijra (transgender) making her way through the coaches collecting alms.

But, most importantly, you can buy little cups of chai.

Tea number...uh...twenty-something...
Tea number…uh…20-something…

Tea is a ritual in India, and doing garam garam chai (steaming hot tea) shots on the train and platforms is a vital part of the experience. I was determined to track my chai consumption, but lost count in a caffeinated delirium about 48 hours in. Tip: a wallet full of Rs10 notes is necessary preparation for adequate caffeination.

Combs, nail clippers, soap, peanuts or tea… these guys have you covered.
Combs, nail clippers, soap, peanuts or tea… these guys have you covered.
A snacks vendor prepares for a rolling disembarkation near Asansol, West Bengal. He made it look easy, but stepping off a moving train in flip-flops onto coarse gravel while balancing a tub of cookies on your shoulder is an art, without a doubt.
A snacks vendor prepares for a rolling disembarkation near Asansol, West Bengal. He made it look easy, but stepping off a moving train in flip-flops onto coarse gravel while balancing a tub of cookies on your shoulder is an art, without a doubt.
A young acrobat boarded the train at Jagiroad, Assam, performing an astonishing floor routine of tumbles and cartwheels down the aisle, hoping for donations.
A young acrobat boarded the train at Jagiroad, Assam, performing an astonishing floor routine of tumbles and cartwheels down the aisle, hoping for donations.
On the train you can: Eat...
On the train you can: Eat…
Watch...Charlie Chaplin movies?
Watch…Charlie Chaplin movies?
Drink tea.
Drink tea.
Look out the window...
Look out the window…
Read...
Read…
or just hang out, watching the world go by...
Or just hang out, watching the world go by…
Hanging out.

All that consumption produces a fair amount of garbage, and I was initially encouraged to discover that a cleaning crew swept through the train once a day. I wondered where all the collected refuse went, since there were no garbage receptacles, and sadly, the tracks are consistently and liberally littered with trash, for good reason.

Station stops are highlights, and increasingly familiar nods to fellow passengers waiting in the doorway as you pull into a new station herald conversation and new friends. If the train is a street market, train platforms are street markets on speed. Vendors have only minutes to sell as many cups of chai, samosas, idlis and vadas as possible, and the platforms are filled with as unique and varied a set of calls as any jungle. Here’s an audio of vendors at Vijayawada Junction, Andhra Pradesh.

The romance of train travel is legendary, and while I think 85 hours might possibly be a tad long for a first date, the experience of Indian Railways train #15906 definitely has its moments. I watched the three sunsets from the train door (where I spent an inordinate amount of time drinking tea and taking photos), and none failed to impress. Deep sleep eluded me for the duration in the cacophony of doppler horns, rattles and snores, so I was unfailingly at the door waiting for the sun to make her appearance each morning (the train travels so far south that the third sunrise is 42 minutes later than the first).

Morning light at Asansol Railway Station, West Bengal
Morning light at Asansol Railway Station, West Bengal.
7:07am, Trivandrum Central, Kerala
7:07am, Thiruvananthapuram Central, Kerala.
Chaparmukh Junction, Assam
Chaparmukh Junction, Assam.
Morning commute, Neyyattinkara, Kerala.
Morning commute, Neyyattinkara, Kerala.

It’s not all tasty snacks, misty mornings and romance, however. Stations can be dirty, rough places, frequented by the homeless, crippled and desperately poor.

A boy begs for money between cars at Guwahati Junction, Assam.
A boy begs for money between cars at Guwahati Junction, Assam.
An amputee makes his way along the tracks outside Guwahati Junction, Assam.
An amputee makes his way along the tracks outside Guwahati Junction, Assam.

The largest employer in India with 1.4 million employees, Indian Railways is one of the largest railways in the world with over 115,000 km of tracks over a route of 65,808 km and 7,112 stations, carrying a staggering 23 million passengers a day, with freight and passenger revenues of $24 billion. Rolling stock includes 10,499 locomotives and 66,392 passenger coaches. The infrastructure is gargantuan, and at times beautiful.

Where railway ties are born, outside Cuttack, Odisha
Where railway ties are born, outside Cuttack, Odisha.
Evening on a trestle bridge across the Mahanadi River in Odisha
Evening on a trestle bridge across the Mahanadi River in Odisha.

Indian Railways is so large it has its own police force, Railway Protection Force (RPF). I’ve rarely felt unsafe on my 10 trips to India, but three soldiers toting sub-machine guns suddenly whipping back the curtains and stepping into my coupe to chat did give me a moment, I have to admit. Likely they were only there to quell the growing unrest due to the late appearance of the morning chai-wallah. Tip: photographing the RPF is frowned upon.

An RPF officer guards the door of the 3 tier AC car outside Diphu, Assam.
An RPF officer guards the door of the 3 tier AC car outside Diphu, Assam.

The train winds her way west through Assam on the first day, then south overnight through the Siliguri Corridor, or “Chicken’s Neck”, a thin strip of West Bengal—at times only 20km wide—between Nepal and Bangladesh that had my phone connecting to a Nepali cellular network for awhile. The second morning finds you in Dubrapur, West Bengal, crossing into Odisha after lunch, and passing through Srikakulam in Andhra Pradesh as you prepare for bed.

Mr Upper Berth, Feb 2016, outside Cuttack, Odisha
Mr Upper Berth, Feb 2016, outside Cuttack, Odisha.
A glimpse into a packed unreserved (aka Second Class) car at Vellore Railway Station, Tamil Nadu
A glimpse into a packed unreserved (aka Second Class) car at Vellore Railway Station, Tamil Nadu.

Bustling Vijayawada Junction in Andhra Pradesh, the 2nd busiest railway station in India (after Mumbai Central), greets you on the third morning, you lunch near Nellore, and pass into Tamil Nadu in time for afternoon tea, with the train angling west to cross into lush, coconut-laden Kerala overnight. The final sunrise of the trip arrives about 6:30 am as you pass Thiruvananthapuram, and the almost empty train crosses back into Tamil Nadu about 8:15 am for the final push south to Kanyakumari, finally gliding to a stop around 11am.

Train #15906 cruises ever southwards, less than 1 hour outside Kanyakumari
Train #15906 cruises ever southwards, less than 1 hour outside Kanyakumari.
End of the line
End of the line.

As far as dancing lessons go, it’s an an epic gambol across India ending in an appropriate location, as Kanyakumari takes its name from the Hindu goddess Devi Kanya Kumari, who removes the rigidity of mind. It is also home to a 40-metre-tall statue of Tamil poet/philosopher Thiruvalluvar, who reminds us:

It is compassion, the most gracious of virtues,

Which moves the world.

Thiruvalluvar statue, Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu
Thiruvalluvar statue, Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu.

This post first appeared on Atavist.com. We welcome your comments at ideas.india@qz.com.

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