Marques Almeida showed a mash-up of various influences that included some of the enlarged sleeves often sported by Princess Diana. These were more in keeping with the volume plays of the 1980s than the much older reference points of Burberry, Erdem, and J.W. Anderson.

Anderson, who has proved one of London’s most influential voices, has also been one of the designers most willing to play with sleeve volumes recently. A year ago, he riffed on those giant leg-of-mutton sleeves of the 1980s. In December, he continued his obsession with the sleeve, showing shoulders so large they looked like they were meant to cover football pads (American football, that is). Vogue predicted his designs would be “affecting the way women dress” by this year.

Whether you can blame Anderson or not—the well-worn joke is that Seinfeld deserves the credit—variations on puffy sleeves are popping up. Actress Diane Kruger just appeared in some at a gala for the New York City ballet, and the cover of Elle magazine next month features actress Lily James wearing one of the full-sleeved sweaters Burberry just sent down the runway.

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