MIC DREAMS

Photos: The small town in Madagascar that is crazy about karaoke

Could be Malagasy music, could Mariah Carey.
Could be Malagasy music, could Mariah Carey.
Image: Rohan Chakravarty
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Manakara is a nondescript town on the south-eastern coast of Madagascar.

During the day, most of its residents either work on rice or coffee plantations, or go treasure hunting for bits of gold and sapphire in the rivers and mountains that surround it. With a population of 60,000 people in a country of 23 million, Manakara is small (the capital, Antananarivo, has some 710,000 people), and looks like it must be one of the poorer places in Madagascar—though statistics are hard to come by.

A river in Manakara, Madagascar
Image: Rohan Chakravarty
Manakara basketball court
Image: Rohan Chakravarty

But at night the half-dozen or so karaoke bars spread across town burst into life.

Image for article titled Photos: The small town in Madagascar that is crazy about karaoke
Image: Rohan Chakravarty

Singing here, and across most of Madagascar, starts at a young age and is deeply entwined with Malagasy culture. Bigger cities have movie halls, night clubs, and bars of various themes, but karaoke is popular everywhere.

La Terrasse started out with six tables, and added 15 more within six months.
La Terrasse started out with six tables, and added 15 more within six months.
Image: Rohan Chakravarty

Nonetheless, the concentration of bars in Manakara is unusual. It might be due to the lack of other forms of entertainment in a relatively poor town.

Young people at a karaoke bar in Manakara
Image: Rohan Chakravarty

As a result, the bars in Manakara double up as community centers of a sort. Young mothers with their babies pack in, jostling for space with lone teenagers mouthing words to songs and stealing an occasional drink.

Teenagers drinking in Manakara
Teenage drinkers welcome.
Image: Rohan Chakravarty

One mother, asked whether she thought the bar was an appropriate place for her young boy, replied: “No ideally its not, but nevertheless, its fun for him to spend time listening to music and being around the family.”

Young boy at a Manakara karaoke bar
Karaoke for all ages.
Image: Rohan Chakravarty

The bars themselves are perfumed with the smells of sweat, smoke, and alcohol. Cheap Chinese LED lights flash in the corners. Large white screens show the lyrics, projected via computers dating from the 1990s.

Karaoke screen in Manakara
Image: Rohan Chakravarty

In dark crevasses, extra chairs are piled up waiting for more patrons. Malagasy beer and flavoured homemade rum flow late into the night without any restrictions of time.

Manakara karaoke DJ
Who needs fancy machines?
Image: Rohan Chakravarty

As for the music, it ranges from Mariah Carey to local Malagasy. Nothing is left unsung.

“Singing here in Manakara is a very popular hobby. A normal bar cannot open without karaoke,” explains Tipo Arnold Stephano, the owner of a La Terrasse, a local bar, which started with a modest six tables and had to add 15 more within six months. Some of the establishments are tiny, with only four tables and people bumping into each other continuously.

Manakara man in a karaoke bar
Image: Rohan Chakravarty

“The police are our friends, and are often here themselves,” says Madame Felena, a portly, quirky woman in her mid 40s, and the owner of another bar, Karaoke Be Miditra.  ”Couples even come to my bar to resolve fights singing songs of their choice.”

A woman sits alone in a karaoke bar in Manakara
A few songs will sort it all out.
Image: Rohan Chakravarty