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The comprehensive guide to buying a diamond engagement ring

Learn everything you need to know about the four Cs: color, cut, clarity and carat

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Image for article titled The comprehensive guide to buying a diamond engagement ring
Photo: Roy Hsu (iStock by Getty Images)

A diamond is formed under intense pressure — buying one can be a similar experience, but done correctly it can also be one of the most satisfying. Not only is a beautiful ring a symbol of your love and commitment, it can also be a unique, priceless heirloom that is passed through generations of your family.

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“A diamond is an individual of itself,” explains Barbara Novak, a third generation diamond dealer and the owner of Barbara Novak Diamonds in New York City. “No two diamonds are exactly the same. They’re similar, but they’re not exactly the same. They’re almost like a fingerprint.”

Novak says that when people are seeking an engagement ring she advises to work with a jeweler they trust and focus on the diamond, because they can always change a ring’s setting down the line.

She says that people will come to her seeking intricate, detailed bands for their engagement rings “with vines and little diamonds all over” before realizing that a simpler band with a higher quality stone is actually what they want.

“Most people who come in for engagement rings end up with something a little bit more basic,” she said. “It’s more modern, very clean, putting their money in the diamond and then saving up for a beautiful band afterwards.”

Novak also emphasizes the need to see a diamond in real life, before purchasing because it’s challenging to discern how a stone will actually look from photographs on the internet.

“People will say they saw something on the internet and it was X amount of dollars and I’ll say ‘Okay, pull it up. Let’s look at it. You didn’t read the fine print. You didn’t read the cert because how would you know how to read a cert,’” she said, referring to the diamond certification that breaks down the quality and value of a given stone.

Included in the diamond certification are the “Four Cs” – cut, color, clarity and carat. Continue reading to learn the significance of each of these qualities, when purchasing a diamond engagement ring.

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Cut

Image for article titled The comprehensive guide to buying a diamond engagement ring
Photo: Xu Xiaolin (iStock by Getty Images)

The cut is the only one of the four Cs that is not determined by nature. Diamond cuts are graded on a scale ranging from Excellent to Poor based on the symmetry, proportions and polish of a given stone.

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“Each shape has its perfect line to be cut to the ratio,” says Novak. “The ratio has to be perfect for it to be an excellent cut.”

Novak explains that an excellent cut can make up for other flaws in a diamond – even if the color or clarity isn’t perfect, a high quality cut will make a diamond sparkle beautifully.

“If it’s cut perfectly, you’re not going to see [flaws] with the naked eye.”

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Color

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Photo: Elizabeth Fernandez (iStock by Getty Images)

A diamond’s color is rated on a scale of D to Z, with the most expensive D diamonds having no color and the cheapest Z diamonds appearing slightly yellow. It’s important to ensure that the cut of a diamond works with the color to mitigate any internal flaws and minimize the appearance of color.

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Conversely, Novak says that it’s also important when buying a flawless, colorless diamond to not undermine its beauty with the band you select.

“Somebody bought a beautiful stone for me – it was a D color and she wanted a yellow gold band,” she said. Novak told the customer it made more sense to purchase a cheaper stone than put the D color diamond in a yellow gold band.

“You don’t put a perfectly white diamond in a yellow setting,” she explains. “It’s an oxymoron. It takes away from the beauty of the stone.”

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Clarity

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Photo: Cavan Images (iStock by Getty Images)

A diamond’s clarity is assessed based on the inclusions – or internal flaws – in the stone. The best diamonds are graded as F for Flawless, while the stones with the worst clarity get a score of I for included. Not all inclusions are visible to the naked eye, however, and a diamond’s cut can somewhat mitigate the presence of flaws.

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“If your diamond is cut properly, it will bring out the best in your clarity,” Novak says. “And clarity is what makes the diamond really shine through and sparkle like fire.”

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Carat

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Photo: Glasshouse Images (iStock by Getty Images)

The final metric to keep in mind when choosing a diamond is carat — which is the actual weight of a stone. One carat is equal to 0.2 grams — though the uniqueness of each diamond means that the carat is only one component of a stone’s size. Two diamonds that are the same weight could appear to be different sizes, when compared side by side.

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Novak says that compared to the other three Cs, carat is more personal. The weight of the diamond is so closely correlated with price that people need to make a selection based on how they want to prioritize their budget.

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