From patching drywall to replacing a ceiling fan, these 25 common household repairs require no contractor — just basic tools, patience, and careful attention
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The average homeowner in the U.S. spends thousands of dollars each year on maintenance and repairs — a significant portion of which goes toward labor costs for jobs that require little more than a free afternoon and a trip to the hardware store. The reluctance to attempt home repairs often comes less from lack of skill than from uncertainty: not knowing where to start, not knowing which products to buy, and worrying that an amateur attempt will make things worse than they already are.
That concern is reasonable. A home is most people's largest financial asset, and the instinct to call a professional is not always wrong. But a wide category of household repairs — a dripping faucet, a squeaky floorboard, a patch of failing caulk, a running toilet — follows simple, repeatable steps that any adult can handle with basic instruction and a modest investment in tools. The skills involved are not complicated. What they require is patience, attention to detail, and a willingness to read the directions on the package.
The expansion of detailed video tutorials and manufacturer-produced how-to guides has made DIY repairs more approachable than they used to be. Hardware store staff are typically knowledgeable and willing to walk a customer through product choices. Many repairs require no specialized tools — just a screwdriver, a utility knife, or a caulk gun. Others call for a single piece of equipment available for under $20.
This list covers 25 repairs a homeowner with no professional training can reasonably handle. Some take 10 minutes. Some take most of a Saturday. None of them requires a licensed contractor. The repairs span the most common household maintenance categories: plumbing, electrical, walls, floors, doors, and fixtures. For any electrical work, the essential first step is turning off the breaker at the panel before touching any wiring — not optional, and not something to skip.
Handling these repairs yourself saves money on labor and builds a working knowledge of how your home's systems actually function. That knowledge becomes its own kind of asset — one that pays off the next time something breaks.
Drywall is one of the most forgiving materials in a home to repair. Small holes — left behind by doorknobs, picture hangers, or removed wall anchors — can be fixed in an afternoon with materials that cost less than $15 at any hardware store.
For holes smaller than about a half-inch, spackling compound applied with a putty knife is sufficient. Press the compound into the hole, smooth it flush with the surrounding wall surface, and let it dry completely. Drying time is usually one to two hours depending on the product and room humidity. Once dry, sand lightly with fine-grit sandpaper, then prime and paint. Done carefully, the repair is essentially invisible.
For holes between a half-inch and about four inches, a self-adhesive mesh patch is the most reliable approach. These patches are sold in the drywall aisle of every hardware store. Press the patch firmly over the hole, then spread joint compound over it using a wide putty knife, feathering the edges out several inches in each direction. Let it dry fully, sand smooth, and apply a second thin coat if the surface still looks uneven. The goal is to build up the surface gradually so the patch blends with the surrounding wall.
For larger holes — up to about a foot across — the job involves cutting out the damaged section and installing a backing board to support a new piece of drywall cut to fit. The backing is typically a scrap of wood screwed into place through the front of the wall before the new drywall patch is inserted. After that, the seams are taped with paper or mesh joint tape and coated with joint compound in thin layers. This process takes longer — often a full day including drying time — but remains within reach of a patient first-timer.
Matching the wall texture is often the hardest part of the repair. Flat and eggshell walls are relatively easy to blend. Textured walls may require a can of spray texture or a sponge technique to recreate the original pattern. Test your approach on a piece of cardboard before applying anything to the wall.
The most common mistake is rushing. Joint compound must dry fully between coats, and over-sanding can remove too much material and require starting over. Work slowly, build up in thin passes, and the repair will be undetectable once painted.
A toilet that runs constantly — where water trickles into the bowl long after the flush cycle ends — is one of the most common and costly household plumbing problems. A running toilet can waste more than 200 gallons of water per day, and fixing it almost never requires a plumber.
The first step is to lift the tank lid and observe what's happening inside. Most running toilets are caused by one of two things: a worn flapper or a misadjusted float.
The flapper is the rubber seal at the bottom of the tank. When you flush, it lifts to let water rush into the bowl. After the flush, it drops back to seal the tank as it refills. When a flapper wears out or warps, it no longer seals correctly, and water seeps continuously into the bowl. Replacing a flapper costs $5 to $10, takes about 15 minutes, and requires no tools. Turn off the water supply at the shutoff valve behind the toilet, flush to empty the tank, unclip the old flapper from the overflow tube, and clip the new one in place. Reconnect the chain to the flush handle with about a half-inch of slack, then turn the water back on.
If the flapper looks fine, the problem is likely the float. The float regulates the water level inside the tank. When it's set too high, water spills continuously into the overflow tube — the vertical pipe in the center of the tank that drains into the bowl. On older toilets with ball-float systems, bending the float arm slightly downward lowers the water level. On newer toilets with cup-float systems, there is usually an adjustment screw or clip on the float mechanism itself. The water level should sit about an inch below the top of the overflow tube.
In some cases, the fill valve has simply worn out and needs replacing. Fill valve replacement kits are sold at hardware stores for $10 to $15 and come with clear instructions. The process involves shutting off the water, emptying the tank, disconnecting the supply line, and installing the new valve. It takes about 30 minutes and requires only an adjustable wrench.
A running toilet is the kind of repair that pays for itself almost immediately in reduced water bills.
A drain that empties slowly is almost always caused by a buildup of hair, soap scum, or grease that has accumulated near the drain opening or inside the trap — the curved pipe just below the drain that holds a small amount of water to block sewer gases. In most cases, no chemical drain cleaner is needed, and the fix takes under 20 minutes.
For bathroom sink and shower drains, the clog is almost always hair. Remove the drain cover — usually held by a single screw or just a friction fit — and look inside with a flashlight. A pair of needle-nose pliers or a hair clog removal tool (a long, flexible plastic stick with barbs along the sides, sold for about $3) can pull out the buildup in one motion. The amount of material that comes out is often considerable and the result is immediate.
If the drain is still slow after clearing the opening, the clog is further down. The most effective non-chemical approach is a combination of baking soda and white vinegar. Pour half a cup of baking soda into the drain, followed immediately by half a cup of white vinegar. Let the mixture fizz for 15 to 20 minutes, then flush with a pot of boiling water. This method works well on light grease and soap accumulation in kitchen drains.
For a more stubborn clog, a hand-cranked drain snake — also called a drum auger — is the right tool. Feed the cable down the drain opening while turning the handle clockwise. When you feel resistance, continue turning to break up or hook the blockage, then pull the snake back out. A basic drain snake costs about $20 to $30 and will handle the majority of household clogs.
If none of these approaches works, the clog may be in the P-trap — the curved section of pipe under the sink. Place a bucket beneath the trap, unscrew the slip-joint nuts on either side by hand or with pliers, remove the curved section, clean it out, and reassemble. The whole process takes about 10 minutes.
Chemical drain cleaners can damage pipes with repeated use and are rarely necessary for standard household clogs.
Replacing a standard single-pole light switch — the kind that controls a fixture from one location — is one of the simplest electrical repairs a homeowner can make. The job requires a flathead screwdriver, a Phillips screwdriver, and a non-contact voltage tester, which costs about $15 and is worth having in any toolkit.
The absolute first step is turning off the breaker that controls the circuit. Do not rely on just flipping the switch off. Go to the electrical panel, identify the correct breaker, and turn it off. Then use the voltage tester at the switch to confirm that power is no longer present before touching any wires.
With the power off, remove the switch plate cover by unscrewing the two screws holding it to the wall. Then unscrew the two screws that mount the switch to the electrical box inside the wall. Pull the switch out gently — it will be attached to wires, so don't yank it. Take a photo of the wiring before disconnecting anything. This gives you a reference for reassembly.
A standard single-pole switch will have two black (or one black and one white marked with black tape) wires connected to its screw terminals, plus a green or bare copper ground wire connected to the green screw. Loosen the terminal screws, disconnect the old wires, and connect them to the new switch in the same configuration. If the wires are backstabbed — inserted into push-in holes rather than wrapped around screws — transfer them to the screw terminals on the new switch instead. Screw connections are more reliable over time.
Tuck the wires back into the box, screw the switch to the box, attach the cover plate, and restore power at the breaker. Test the switch before closing up the wall.
Three-way switches — the ones that control a fixture from two locations — involve an additional wire called a traveler and are slightly more complex, but still manageable with the same basic approach and a careful photo taken before you disconnect anything.
Grout — the filler material between tiles — hardens over time, absorbs moisture, and eventually cracks, crumbles, or discolors in ways that no amount of cleaning will fix. Regrouting a tiled surface, whether a shower surround, a backsplash, or a bathroom floor, restores the appearance and protects the underlying surface from water intrusion.
The first step is removing the old grout. A grout saw — a handheld tool with a carbide-tipped blade — works well for straight joints. An oscillating multi-tool with a grout-removal attachment is faster for larger areas. The goal is to remove grout to a depth of about an eighth of an inch without chipping or cracking the tile itself. Work slowly and steadily. This is the most labor-intensive part of the job.
After removing the grout, vacuum the joints thoroughly and wipe the tiles clean. Any remaining dust or debris will weaken the bond of the new grout. If the tiles are on a wall or in a shower, let the area dry completely before proceeding — at least 24 hours.
Choose the right grout for your application. Sanded grout is used for joints wider than one-eighth of an inch. Unsanded grout is used for narrower joints and on surfaces that might scratch, like polished tile. Epoxy grout is more durable and stain-resistant but harder to work with and more expensive — it's best reserved for heavily used or frequently wet areas.
Mix the grout according to the package directions until it reaches a peanut butter consistency. Apply it with a rubber grout float held at a 45-degree angle, pressing the mixture firmly into the joints in diagonal strokes. Work in sections of about three to four square feet at a time. Once the grout starts to haze over — usually 15 to 30 minutes after application — wipe the tile surface clean with a damp sponge in circular motions, rinsing the sponge frequently.
Allow the grout to cure for at least 72 hours before exposing it to water. Apply a grout sealer after curing to protect the surface and make future cleaning easier.
A faucet that drips even when fully closed is not just annoying — a single dripping faucet can waste thousands of gallons of water over the course of a year. The fix depends on the type of faucet, but most repairs involve replacing a worn washer, O-ring, or cartridge, and cost only a few dollars in parts.
Before starting any faucet repair, turn off the water supply at the shutoff valves under the sink. Turn the faucet on to release any remaining pressure and drain the lines. Plug the drain so small parts don't disappear down the pipe.
Ball faucets — common in kitchens — have a single handle that rotates over a ball mechanism. When they drip, the cause is usually worn springs, seats, or O-rings inside the body. Repair kits for ball faucets are sold at hardware stores and include all the internal components needed. Disassemble the handle by removing the cap on top, then the handle screw, the collar, and the cap to access the ball and seats. Replace everything in the kit, reassemble in reverse order, and test.
Cartridge faucets — found in both single-handle and two-handle configurations — use a cartridge that can be pulled straight out once the handle is removed. Bring the old cartridge to the hardware store to match it exactly. Installation is the reverse of removal. Some cartridges have a specific orientation and must be inserted correctly — consult the manufacturer's instructions or a reference photo.
Compression faucets are the oldest type, commonly found in older homes with two separate handles. They seal with a rubber washer at the bottom of a stem. When they drip, the washer is worn. Remove the handle, unscrew the packing nut, pull out the stem, and replace the washer on the end. These washers cost less than $1.
Ceramic disc faucets use a cylinder containing two ceramic discs. They rarely drip, but when they do, cleaning the ceramic discs with white vinegar or replacing the disc cylinder resolves the issue.
Replacing a door lockset — the combination of the knob or lever handle and the latch mechanism — is a manageable afternoon project that requires only a screwdriver and, in some cases, a drill. People change locksets for many reasons: a worn mechanism, a move into a new home, or a desire to upgrade the hardware.
Most standard door locksets are designed for doors with a 2-3/8-inch or 2-3/4-inch backset — the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the knob hole. Check this measurement before purchasing a new lockset, as not all are adjustable. Most modern locksets include a latch bolt that accommodates both backset sizes.
To remove the existing lockset, look for two screws on the interior face of the knob or lever — usually visible on the rose plate behind the handle. Remove these screws to pull both sides of the knob assembly off the door. The latch mechanism on the edge of the door is held by two additional screws; remove those and slide the latch out.
Installing the new lockset follows the same process in reverse. Insert the new latch into the edge of the door, securing it with its screws. Thread the exterior knob through the latch assembly, then attach the interior knob, aligning the screw holes and tightening the mounting screws. Test the latch before closing the door — it should retract smoothly when you turn the knob and spring back to the extended position when released.
The strike plate — the metal plate on the door frame where the latch catches — may need adjustment. If the latch doesn't catch smoothly, loosen the strike plate screws, reposition the plate slightly, and re-tighten. On older doors, the mortise (the recessed hole in the frame) may need slight enlargement with a chisel.
If you're also replacing a deadbolt, the process is the same. Install it separately from the lockset, ensuring the bolt extends fully and aligns cleanly with the strike plate hole in the frame.
An exterior door that lets in cold air, drafts, or insects around its edges is a common source of energy waste and discomfort. Weatherstripping seals the gaps between the door and its frame, and installing or replacing it is one of the highest-return low-effort repairs on this list.
Start by identifying where the gap is. Hold a lit stick of incense near the door edges while someone stands outside — the smoke will reveal even small drafts. Alternatively, hold a piece of paper between the door and the frame and close the door; if the paper pulls out easily, the seal is inadequate.
For the door sides and top — the three edges where the door meets the stop molding — foam tape or V-strip (also called tension seal) weatherstripping is the most common choice. Foam tape is the easiest to install: clean the surface, peel the adhesive backing, and press the tape into the channel where the door meets the stop. V-strip is more durable. It's installed in the channel of the door stop, with the open end of the V facing outward so the door compresses it when closed. Cut V-strip with scissors, nail or staple it in place, and fold the strip outward slightly before the door is rehung.
For the bottom of the door, a door sweep is the most effective solution. A standard door sweep is an aluminum strip with a rubber or vinyl flange that attaches to the interior face of the door at the bottom. Cut it to width with a hacksaw or metal snips, position it so the flange contacts the threshold when the door is closed, and screw it to the door face. Door sweeps are sold in standard lengths and cost $10 to $25.
For a more complete seal at the bottom, a door threshold with a built-in seal can be installed in place of the existing threshold. This involves removing the old threshold, cutting the new one to fit, and screwing it to the floor — a more involved job but worth it on a door with a large or uneven gap.
Replace weatherstripping every few years. Foam compresses over time and loses its effectiveness. V-strip and rubber door sweeps last longer but still degrade with use.
A showerhead that streams weakly, drips after shutoff, or has clogged spray nozzles from mineral buildup is one of the easiest fixtures in a bathroom to replace. The job requires no plumbing knowledge, no cutting of pipes, and no special tools beyond a pair of pliers and a roll of thread seal tape.
Start by turning off the shower and examining the existing showerhead where it connects to the shower arm — the pipe extending from the wall. The connection is a standard threaded fitting, and the showerhead simply unscrews counterclockwise. Most can be removed by hand; if the connection is stubborn, use pliers with a cloth between the jaws to avoid scratching the chrome. Turn counterclockwise until the showerhead comes free.
Once removed, inspect the threads on the shower arm. Clean off any old thread seal tape or residue. Wrap new thread seal tape — sold in every hardware store for about $2 per roll — clockwise around the threads, two or three times. This prevents leaks and makes future removal easier. Press the tape into the threads as you wrap so it seats properly.
Thread the new showerhead onto the arm clockwise. Hand-tighten it until snug, then give it one additional quarter-turn with pliers — no more. Overtightening can crack the fitting on the showerhead or damage the shower arm threads.
Turn the water on and check for leaks at the connection point. If water seeps from the joint, turn the water off, dry the threads, and add another layer of tape before reconnecting.
If you want to address a clogged existing showerhead rather than replace it, submerge it in a bag filled with white vinegar and secure the bag to the shower arm with a rubber band. Leave it overnight. The acetic acid dissolves mineral deposits and typically restores water flow significantly.
When choosing a new showerhead, check the flow rate. Standard showerheads in the U.S. are limited to 2.5 gallons per minute. Low-flow models use 1.5 to 2.0 gallons per minute and can reduce water heating costs noticeably over time.
A squeaky floor is almost always caused by wood moving against wood or wood moving against a fastener. When floorboards or subfloor panels shift under foot traffic, the friction creates that characteristic creak. Fixing the squeak means identifying the source and limiting that movement.
From above — the most accessible approach — the simplest fix for a hardwood floor squeak is to drive a finish nail at an angle through the face of the board and into the subfloor below. Use a nail set to countersink the head below the surface, fill the hole with a matching wood filler, and the nail is invisible. This works best when the squeak is in the floorboard itself rather than between the subfloor and the joists.
Another above-floor method uses a purpose-built tool called a Squeeeeek No More, which drives special screws through carpet or hardwood that snap off just below the surface, pulling the subfloor tight to the joist. It's sold at hardware stores and is particularly useful for carpeted floors where nailing isn't practical.
For hardwood floors, powdered graphite or a dry lubricant like talcum powder worked into the joint between boards can reduce friction without any structural intervention. Sprinkle a small amount into the seam, work it in with your foot, and wipe up the excess. This is a temporary solution but effective for minor squeaks.
If you have access to the floor from below — through an unfinished basement or crawl space — the repair options are more effective and permanent. Have someone walk on the squeaky area while you watch from below. You'll see the subfloor flex at the point of movement. Drive a wood screw up through the subfloor into the back of the hardwood from underneath, being careful to use a screw short enough not to penetrate through the surface. This pulls the subfloor and hardwood together and eliminates the movement.
For subfloor-to-joist squeaks, apply a bead of construction adhesive along the top edge of the joist where it contacts the subfloor, then secure a small piece of wood as a shim between the two if there's a gap. Once the adhesive cures, the movement stops.
Squeaky stairs are fixed the same way — usually by driving screws through the tread into the riser from below, or by gluing small wooden wedges into the open joints if the stairs are accessible from the back.
A torn or sagging window screen is a common home maintenance issue that takes about 30 minutes to fix and costs under $10 in materials. The repair requires no power tools and almost no prior experience.
Window screens consist of a screen mesh material held in a frame by a flexible rubber or vinyl cord called spline, which presses into a groove running around the perimeter of the frame. Replacing the mesh means removing the old spline, pulling out the damaged screen, cutting new screen material to size, and pressing it back into the groove with new spline.
Start by removing the screen from the window and laying it on a flat surface. Use a flathead screwdriver or a spline removal tool to pry up one corner of the spline and pull it free from the groove all the way around. The old screen will come out easily once the spline is removed. Take note of the spline diameter — it's usually marked on the package when you buy a replacement, or you can measure it with calipers. Using the wrong diameter spline is the most common source of problems.
Cut the new screen material larger than the frame by about an inch on each side. Fiberglass mesh is easier to work with than aluminum — it doesn't kink or crease as easily and is appropriate for most standard windows.
Lay the screen over the frame, keeping it taut but not stretched. Place a length of spline along one short side of the frame and use a spline roller tool — a small handle with a convex wheel on one end and a concave wheel on the other — to press the spline and screen into the groove. The concave wheel is used for the final press. Work along the short side first, then pull the screen taut across to the opposite short side and repeat, then do the two long sides.
Trim the excess screen material along the outside edge of the spline groove with a utility knife held at a slight inward angle. The blade should follow the outer edge of the groove cleanly.
The result is a tight, wrinkle-free screen. Done well, it's indistinguishable from a factory-installed one.
Paint touch-ups are deceptively difficult. The mechanics are simple — fill a hole, apply paint — but achieving a seamless result requires understanding why touch-ups so often look worse than the original damage.
The core problem is sheen. Even with the exact same paint and color, a small fresh application over an older surrounding surface will look different because the aged paint has lost some of its reflectivity. The larger the touched-up area, the more visible the difference. The solution is to feather the touch-up outward across a larger surface rather than dabbing paint only over the damaged spot.
Start by repairing the surface if needed — fill nail holes or small dents with spackling compound, sand smooth when dry, and prime the spot before painting. Skipping the primer step is the most common reason touch-ups look patchy; the unpainted compound absorbs paint differently than the surrounding wall.
If you have leftover paint from the original job, check the color still matches by testing a small area and letting it dry completely. Paint dries darker than it applies wet, and stored paint can shift slightly in color over time if it wasn't sealed properly.
Apply the touch-up paint with a small roller rather than a brush whenever possible. Rollers deposit paint with a texture that matches most wall finishes far better than a brush, which tends to leave visible brush marks. A small four-inch foam roller works well for limited areas.
Feather the edges by gradually applying less pressure at the perimeter of the touch-up, blending the new paint into the old surface over a few inches on each side. Two thin coats are better than one thick one.
For ceilings, matching flat white is easier than walls because ceiling paint is typically a single standard color and the viewing angle makes imperfections less visible.
If the damage is large enough that feathering doesn't hide the repair, the cleanest solution is to repaint the entire wall from corner to corner. This eliminates the boundary between old and new paint entirely.
A dead outlet — one that doesn't power anything even when the circuit is live — is usually either a tripped GFCI outlet on the same circuit or a burned-out receptacle that simply needs replacing. Swapping an outlet takes about 20 minutes and requires only a screwdriver and a voltage tester.
Before doing anything, go to the electrical panel and turn off the breaker for the circuit. Use a non-contact voltage tester at the outlet to confirm there is no power present. Do this even if the outlet appears dead — a failed outlet on a live circuit can still carry voltage on the other screw terminals.
Remove the outlet cover plate by unscrewing the center screw. Then unscrew the two mounting screws that hold the outlet to the electrical box and gently pull the outlet out into the room. The outlet will be connected to wires: black (hot) wires connect to the brass-colored screw terminals on the side, white (neutral) wires connect to the silver-colored terminals, and a bare copper or green wire connects to the green ground screw.
Take a photo before disconnecting anything. Loosen each terminal screw, remove the wires, and connect them to the new outlet in the same configuration. If the wires were backstabbed into push-in holes, redirect them to the screw terminals instead — screw terminations are more secure and less likely to cause problems over time.
Push the outlet back into the box, tighten the mounting screws, attach the cover plate, and restore power at the breaker. Test with a plug-in outlet tester, available for about $5, which shows whether the wiring is correctly configured.
GFCI outlets — the ones with test and reset buttons, required in bathrooms, kitchens, and garages — are replaced the same way but have additional terminals labeled "line" and "load." Line connects to the incoming power wires; load connects to any additional outlets downstream on the same circuit. The labeling on the new outlet will guide correct installation.
Standard outlets in the U.S. are 15-amp or 20-amp. A 20-amp outlet has a T-shaped slot on one side. Use the same amperage rating as the one you're replacing.
A door that sticks, drags along the floor, or requires a hard push to latch is a friction problem with a mechanical cause. Identifying that cause determines the fix.
The most common reason an interior door sticks is seasonal wood movement. Wood expands when humidity rises in summer and contracts when it drops in winter. A door that opens easily in January but drags in August has likely absorbed moisture and swollen. In many cases, this corrects itself when the humidity drops — but if the fit is tight enough to be genuinely difficult, the door needs to be planed or sanded where it's binding.
Find the binding area by looking for scuff marks or worn paint along the door edge or the frame. The paint will be rubbed away at the point of contact. Mark the area with chalk or pencil, then remove the door by tapping out the hinge pins with a screwdriver and mallet. Plane or sand the marked area in long, even strokes. Plane parallel to the wood grain whenever possible. Remove a little at a time — you can always take more off, but you can't put it back. Re-hang the door and test the fit.
A door can also stick because a hinge has come loose. Check all three hinges for loose screws. A hinge with a stripped screw hole can be fixed by removing the hinge, filling the hole with wooden toothpicks and a drop of wood glue, letting it dry, and reinstalling the hinge screw. The toothpicks give the screw fresh material to grip.
If the door latches but doesn't click shut properly, the strike plate may be out of alignment. The latch bolt should enter the strike plate hole cleanly. If there's a slight misalignment, you'll see scratch marks on the plate above or below the hole. Loosen the strike plate screws, shift the plate in the direction needed, and retighten. For a small shift, filing the strike plate hole with a metal file is faster than repositioning the entire plate.
Exterior doors that stick along the bottom may have a failing threshold seal rather than a wood fit problem — in that case, the seal or threshold needs replacement, not the door.
The caulk joint where the bathtub meets the tile wall is one of the most failure-prone areas in a bathroom. It's subject to constant moisture, temperature changes, and the slight flexing that occurs when someone steps into a tub. Over time, caulk cracks, peels, or develops mold that no surface cleaner will eliminate. When that happens, the only real fix is full removal and reapplication.
Removing old caulk is the most important step and the one most people rush. A dedicated caulk remover tool — a plastic or metal scraper with an angled blade — is the right instrument. Run it along the joint to cut away the bulk of the old caulk, then use a utility knife to clean up the edges. Pull the caulk in long strips where possible. Spray a commercial caulk remover or softener on stubborn residue and let it sit for 15 to 20 minutes before scraping.
Once the old caulk is gone, clean the joint thoroughly. Wipe with rubbing alcohol or a mold-killing bathroom cleaner and let the surface dry completely — at least 24 hours. Applying new caulk over any moisture or soap film residue leads to adhesion failure within weeks.
Choose a caulk rated for kitchen and bath use. These formulations contain mildewcides and are designed to flex with the joint rather than crack under movement. A white silicone-acrylic blend works for most bathtub applications. Pure silicone is more flexible and durable but harder to smooth neatly and requires mineral spirits for cleanup.
Fill the tub with water before applying the caulk. The weight of the water causes the tub to flex and drop slightly — this is normal. Caulking with a filled tub means the joint is at its maximum width, so the caulk cures in a configuration that accommodates normal use.
Apply a thin, even bead along the joint and smooth it with a wet fingertip or a caulk smoothing tool in a single continuous pass. Wipe away excess with a damp cloth. Let the caulk cure according to the manufacturer's instructions — usually 24 hours before light water contact and 72 hours before full exposure.
A clogged toilet that won't flush fully or backs up when flushed can usually be cleared in five to ten minutes with the right technique. The instinct to flush repeatedly is counterproductive — it fills the bowl with more water and risks an overflow.
The tool for the job is a flange plunger, not a standard cup plunger. A cup plunger — the simple rubber dome on a stick — is designed for flat drains. A flange plunger has an extended soft rubber flap that folds down from the dome and fits into the toilet drain opening, creating a much better seal. The seal is what makes plunging effective.
Place the flange plunger into the toilet bowl so the flange enters the drain opening. Press down gently first to push any air out of the dome — an air pocket reduces suction. Then use firm, even strokes — push down and pull up with roughly equal force. The push drives water into the drain; the pull creates suction that dislodges the clog. After eight to 10 strokes, pull the plunger away sharply. If the clog has cleared, the water will drain quickly.
If plunging doesn't work after several attempts, a toilet auger — also called a closet auger — is the next step. This is a flexible cable with a curved protective sleeve designed to enter the toilet without scratching the porcelain. Feed the cable through the bowl opening while turning the handle clockwise. When you feel resistance, continue turning to break up or hook the clog, then retract the cable. Most clogs that resist a plunger yield immediately to an auger.
Chemical drain openers labeled for toilets should be used sparingly and only as directed. Many contain bleach or caustic compounds that can damage the toilet's wax ring seal with repeated use.
Items that commonly cause toilet clogs include excessive toilet paper, paper towels, disposable wipes marketed as flushable (they don't break down the way toilet paper does), and small objects dropped accidentally. None of these require a plumber to dislodge.
Installing a ceiling fan where a light fixture already exists is more involved than some repairs on this list, but it remains comfortably within DIY range. The wiring is straightforward, the hardware comes with instructions, and the job typically takes two to three hours from start to finish.
Begin at the electrical panel. Turn off the breaker for the circuit and confirm at the fixture that power is off using a voltage tester. Remove the existing light fixture by unscrewing the mounting hardware and disconnecting the wire connections.
Check whether the electrical box in the ceiling is rated for a ceiling fan. Ceiling fans are heavy and vibrate during operation, so standard light fixture boxes — which are rated only for static weight — are not adequate. If the existing box is not fan-rated, it needs to be replaced with a fan-rated box before proceeding. These are available at hardware stores for $10 to $20 and attach to the ceiling joist or an expandable brace inserted through the existing hole.
Most ceiling fans include a mounting bracket that attaches to the fan-rated box. Hang the fan motor from the bracket — most use a ball-and-socket mount that allows the motor to hang freely during installation, making wiring easier. The downrod connects the motor to the bracket.
The wiring connects black wire to black wire (hot), white to white (neutral), and ground to ground. If the fan includes a light kit with a separate control, there may be a blue wire for the light circuit. Cap connections with wire nuts and tuck them into the ceiling box.
Attach the fan blades to the blade irons (the angled brackets), then mount the blade irons to the motor. Attach the light kit if included, and install light bulbs within the wattage rating marked inside the fixture.
Restore power and test the fan at all speed settings and the light separately. A slight wobble during operation is usually corrected by using a balancing kit — included with most fans — which involves attaching small clip weights to the blade tips.
Cabinet doors that hang crooked, won't close fully, or gap unevenly are almost always a hinge adjustment problem — and on modern cabinets with concealed European-style hinges, the adjustment takes about 30 seconds per door.
European hinges — the kind mounted inside the cabinet rather than on the visible edge — have multiple adjustment screws. The side-adjustment screw (usually the one in the center or at the back of the hinge plate) moves the door left or right. The depth-adjustment screw moves the door forward or back toward the cabinet face. The height adjustment, if present, moves the door up or down. Most adjustments are a matter of turning these screws a quarter or half turn in the right direction and testing the fit.
For cabinets with traditional butt hinges — the flat, visible type mounted on the surface of the door and frame — a drooping or misaligned door usually means the hinge screws have pulled loose from the wood. Tighten the loose screws first. If the screw holes are stripped, remove the hinge, fill the holes with wooden toothpicks coated in wood glue, let it dry, and reinstall the hinge screws. The filled holes give the screws fresh material to grip.
Loose drawer pulls and cabinet knobs are an even simpler fix. The hardware attaches through a hole drilled in the door face with a bolt and a small nut on the inside. Tighten these with a screwdriver and a small wrench or pliers. If the bolt itself keeps spinning in the hole, hold the bolt head from inside the drawer while tightening the nut from outside.
Drawer glides — the tracks that allow drawers to slide smoothly — can wear out over time, causing drawers to stick, tilt, or fall out. Most modern drawers use soft-close undermount glides that clip to the drawer bottom. If the drawer is rough or misaligned, check for a small adjustment clip or lever at the front of the glide beneath the drawer. A slight push or repositioning usually solves the problem.
Replacing worn glides entirely involves unscrewing the old tracks from the cabinet interior and drawer, measuring the drawer depth, and installing matching new glides — a repair that costs $10 to $30 per drawer and takes about 20 minutes.
A garbage disposal that hums but doesn't spin, or makes no sound at all when switched on, is not necessarily broken. Most disposal failures are caused by a jam or a tripped thermal overload — both of which are resolved in a few minutes without any parts.
When a disposal jams — usually from grinding something too dense, like a fruit pit, a small bone, or accumulated fibrous food like celery or artichoke — it can lock the motor. Some disposals detect the jam and shut off automatically to prevent motor burnout. The first thing to try is the reset button. This is a small red or black button on the underside of the disposal unit beneath the sink. Press it firmly until you feel it click into place. Then try the switch again. If the motor hums but the grinding plate doesn't turn, the jam itself is still in place.
To clear a jam, turn the disposal switch off and unplug the unit from the outlet under the sink — or turn off the circuit breaker. Never reach a hand into the disposal. Use the hex wrench tool that comes with most disposals — it fits into a hex socket on the underside of the unit at the center. Insert the wrench and turn it back and forth to manually rotate the grinding plate and dislodge whatever is causing the obstruction. Once it moves freely, remove the obstruction using tongs or pliers — not your hand.
If no hex wrench is available, a ¼-inch Allen wrench from a standard set fits most disposals.
Once the jam is cleared and the reset button is pressed, plug the unit back in, run cold water, and turn it on. It should operate normally.
To prevent future jams, run cold water before, during, and after using the disposal. Cold water keeps any fat or grease in solid form so it can be ground and flushed. Avoid grinding starchy or fibrous foods, and cut large food scraps into smaller pieces before adding them.
Disposals that leak from the bottom — from a seal inside the motor housing — typically need replacement rather than repair. But a leak from the drain connection or the sink mounting ring can usually be fixed by tightening the mounting bolts or replacing the plumber's putty seal.
A toilet seat that cracks, wobbles, discolors, or simply needs upgrading is one of the most straightforward replacements in a bathroom. The job takes about 15 minutes and requires nothing beyond a screwdriver and occasionally a wrench.
Toilet seats attach to the toilet bowl through two bolts that pass through holes at the back of the seat, through the bolt holes at the rear of the porcelain bowl, and are secured underneath with nuts. On older toilets, these nuts are often plastic and finger-tight; on newer or higher-end fixtures, they may be metal and require a small wrench or pliers.
Start by opening the plastic caps that cover the bolt heads at the back of the seat — they pry or flip up. Unscrew the bolts counterclockwise. If the nuts underneath are plastic, hold the bolt head still with a flathead screwdriver while you turn the nut by hand beneath the bowl. If the nuts are corroded or stuck, spray them with a penetrating lubricant and let it sit for 10 minutes before trying again. In a worst case, a hacksaw blade can cut through corroded metal bolts if they won't budge by any other method.
Once the nuts are off, lift the old seat straight up and off the bowl. Clean the bolt hole area on the porcelain before installing the new seat.
When purchasing a new seat, measure your toilet bowl first. Round bowls are about 16 to 17 inches in length; elongated bowls are about 18 to 19 inches. Most toilet seats are labeled round or elongated — using the wrong shape results in a poor fit.
Install the new seat by positioning it over the bowl so the bolt holes align, insert the new bolts from above, and thread the nuts on from beneath. Tighten the nuts until the seat is stable but not so tight that the plastic mounting hardware cracks. Close the decorative caps over the bolt heads.
Soft-close seats, which are now standard on many mid-range models, attach the same way and require no additional steps.
Cracks in a concrete driveway are inevitable. Concrete expands and contracts with temperature changes, and the ground beneath it shifts slightly over time. Small cracks — under about a quarter-inch wide — can be filled easily and sealed against water intrusion, which prevents them from widening through freeze-thaw cycles.
Begin by cleaning the crack thoroughly. Use a wire brush or angle grinder with a crack-cleaning attachment to remove loose material, vegetation, and dirt from the crack. Blow out the debris with a compressed air can or garden hose, then let the area dry completely. Applying filler to a dusty or damp crack produces poor adhesion and a repair that fails quickly.
For cracks up to about a half-inch wide, a self-leveling polyurethane or latex-based concrete crack filler sold in a squeezable bottle or caulk tube is the easiest product to use. Pour or squeeze the filler into the crack until it slightly overfills the surface. Self-leveling filler will settle and smooth on its own. Allow it to cure according to the product directions — usually 24 to 48 hours before driving on it.
For wider cracks or areas where chunks of concrete have broken out, a vinyl concrete patching compound mixed to a thick consistency is a better choice. Work it into the crack with a trowel, overfill slightly, and smooth it flush with the surrounding surface. Feather the edges outward. As it cures, it will shrink slightly — a second thin application may be needed to bring it flush.
Once the filler has cured, apply a concrete sealer over the entire driveway if the surface hasn't been sealed recently. A penetrating silane-siloxane sealer protects against water, deicing salts, and staining without leaving a visible surface film. These sealers are applied with a pump sprayer and do not require any surface preparation beyond a clean, dry surface.
Sealing the whole driveway every few years, rather than just treating individual cracks, is the most cost-effective approach to preventing future deterioration.
A bathroom exhaust fan that runs noisily, moves little air, or has stopped working entirely is worth replacing rather than ignoring. Inadequate bathroom ventilation leads to moisture buildup, mold growth, and long-term damage to walls and ceilings. Most exhaust fans can be swapped out in a few hours with standard tools.
Begin by turning off the power at the breaker and confirming with a voltage tester that the circuit is dead. Remove the existing fan cover by pulling it straight down — most snap onto spring clips. Look inside to see how the fan motor is mounted and how the wiring is connected.
If you're replacing a fan in the same housing, remove the old motor unit by disconnecting the wiring and unscrewing or unclipping the motor from the housing. Match the CFM (cubic feet per minute) rating of the new motor to the old one, or go higher for better ventilation. Install the new motor in the same housing, reconnect the wiring, and test before replacing the cover.
If you're replacing the entire fan housing — because the old housing is damaged or undersized — the job involves disconnecting the duct connection in the attic or ceiling space. Turn off power, remove the old housing by unscrewing it from the ceiling joist or bracket, disconnect the duct, and pull the wiring through. Install the new housing in the same opening, connect it to the duct, and reconnect the wiring. Most new housings include a built-in wire connector that makes this step simple.
Exhaust fan wiring is standard: black to black, white to white, ground to ground. If the existing fan was on a timer switch or humidity sensor, ensure the new fan is compatible with that control type.
The duct should vent to the exterior of the home — not into the attic. If the existing duct runs into the attic, extend it to a roof or soffit vent before finishing the installation.
Aim for a fan rated at least 1 CFM per square foot of bathroom area, with a sone rating of 2.0 or lower for quiet operation.
A handrail that wobbles or pulls away from its brackets is a safety issue that should be addressed promptly. The fix depends on whether the loose component is the wall bracket, the baluster (the vertical spindles), or the newel post at the base of the staircase.
For a wall-mounted handrail that has come loose at one or more brackets, the problem is usually screws that have pulled out of the wall or into studs that were missed during original installation. Remove the bracket from the wall and examine the holes. If the bracket was anchored in drywall without hitting a stud, switch to toggle bolts or use hollow-wall anchors rated for the load. If the screw holes in the stud itself have stripped out, remove the bracket, fill the holes with wooden toothpicks and glue, let it cure, and reinstall with longer screws — at least 2½ inches — into the stud.
Find studs with an inexpensive magnetic or electronic stud finder. Handrail brackets should always be anchored into studs whenever possible, not just into drywall.
For a handrail that rests on top of balusters and has come loose at the joint where it connects to the newel post, the connection is usually a threaded rod and nut inside the post, accessed from below or through a plug on the side. Tighten the nut if accessible, or reinforce the joint with construction adhesive and wood screws driven at an angle through the handrail into the post.
A wobbly newel post — the large structural post at the bottom of a stair railing — is usually loose because the bolts that anchor it to the floor or stair structure have worked loose. There is often a decorative cap at the base of the post concealing the fastener. Pry up the cap, tighten the bolt underneath, and replace the cap.
For a newel post mounted to the stair tread from below, access from the underside of the stairs allows you to drive additional lag bolts upward through the tread into the base of the post.
A cracked or broken floor tile is an eyesore and, if left unaddressed, a source of moisture infiltration in wet areas. Replacing a single tile without disturbing the surrounding installation takes care and patience, but the process is straightforward.
The first step is removing the grout around the broken tile. Use a grout saw or oscillating tool to cut along all four joints. This step protects the adjacent tiles from cracking during removal — the grout joints act as a buffer, so removing them cleanly before you pry out the broken tile is essential.
Once the grout is removed, break the damaged tile into pieces using a cold chisel and hammer. Work from the center outward. Angling the chisel slightly helps prevent the blade from digging into the subfloor beneath. Remove all pieces, then chip away the old tile adhesive (called thinset mortar) from the subfloor until the surface is smooth and level. A floor scraper or wide chisel works well for this.
Vacuum the area and check that the subfloor is solid and flat. If there are low spots or ridges, fill them with thinset before setting the new tile.
Apply fresh thinset to the back of the new tile using a notched trowel, spreading it in consistent ridges that run in one direction. Press the tile firmly into position, twisting it slightly as you set it to collapse the ridges and ensure full contact. Check alignment with the surrounding tiles. Place spacers at the four corners to maintain consistent joint width. Let the thinset cure for 24 hours before applying grout.
Mix the grout to match the surrounding joints — bring a piece of the old grout or a photo to the hardware store for color matching. Apply it with a rubber grout float, press it into all four joints, and wipe the tile face with a damp sponge. Allow to cure for 72 hours before foot traffic.
One replacement tile often means the finish varies slightly from the surrounding floor due to dye-lot differences or aging. If an exact match is not possible, choosing a tile that blends rather than contrasts — slightly lighter rather than slightly darker — tends to be less noticeable.
