The prices have evidently been an issue too. Business of Fashion reports (paywall) that even before the line’s launch, Rihanna was concerned the price tags might put off fans, who have otherwise happily lined up to buy items like her $22 Fenty Beauty lipstick. Though priced lower than other LVMH brands, the clothing was still expensive. Fashion lines centered on a celebrity tend to perform better at accessible prices in the mass market, often with the help of large partners such as department stores or big-box retailers like Target. When celebrity-founded luxury companies have succeeded, as in the case of The Row by Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen, it’s been through a focus on product and not so much the fame of the founders.

The pandemic has not been an ideal moment to build a new brand either. Leading names such as Louis Vuitton and Dior have proved resilient, but smaller companies without so large and loyal an audience have suffered.

It’s possible the Fenty line could return. In its statement, LVMH didn’t elaborate on what “better conditions” might mean, but it’s likely they would entail Covid-19 being better contained.

In the meantime, LVMH is signaling its confidence in Rihanna’s lingerie line. L Catterton, the private-equity firm in which LVMH is a partner, led a $115 million funding round that will help Savage x Fenty continue its growth and expand into retail. In a statement, it touted the line’s “remarkable success by disrupting the intimates category.”

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