Not surprisingly, not everyone agrees with my take on New York Fashion Week: Men’s, of course.

Backstage after his decidedly un-commercial presentation, designer Alexandre Plokhov said he was happy to finally have a week in New York for menswear. “It’s long overdue and I hope it continues. I watched the success of London and I think we deserve something like that also,” he said, referring to the growth London has seen since launching its own men’s week in 2012.

But the London calendar, which has the advantage of starting the season, has established itself as a place to look for innovation. It includes big draws such as Burberry and JW Anderson, and Craig Green is becoming a must-see as well. Those last two at least are definitely not in the commercial camp.

When asked what the difference is between menswear in New York and Europe, Plokhov joked, “Well, we like to sell clothes.” But if New York Fashion Week: Men’s is going to be a real and lasting hit, it needs to like pushing the envelope, too.

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