And it’s not relegated to fashion’s ultra-cool margins. In January, Gucci’s new creative director, Alessandro Michele, sent out a menswear show celebrating what the brand characterized as “a dreamy ambiguity throughout.”

androgyny, gucci, creative director, alessandro michele, menswear, fashion
Gucci menswear, fall 2015.
Image: AP Photo/Antonio Calanni

That included female models, lace tops, and pussy-bow blouses. Miuccia Prada’s suiting took a harder line, but her approach to the gender discussion was similar:

“These shows are the perfect moment to analyze this subject more deeply to measure what the genders share, what they take from each other,” said Prada. My market share is your market share.

So who’s buying this stuff? So glad you asked.

Menswear has a rich, childless fan base with a funny name

Twenty years after the birth of the metrosexual, researchers at HSBC came up with another term for vain men wont to spend their paychecks on luxury goods: yummies, which is just an embarrassing name for young urban males.

According to Bloomberg’s interpretation, insecure men in their 20s are well-poised to shop on their smartphones, and they don’t care about saving for cars or their kids’ college funds—because they don’t have any. But they still like driving moccasins.

Menswear has its own hashtag—plus, a mascot

Like so many important global movements, menswear has harnessed the power of social media. Back in the mid-aughts there was hardly anywhere for a guy to read about raw selvedge denim or authentic Japanese loopwheel terry cloth sweatshirts online. But now menswear has its very own hashtag called, you guessed it, #menswear. But it’s already over, according to GQ’s Jian Deleon, who lamented the sharp dive in the quality of Tumblr’s #menswear in December 2013.

“Two years ago Tumblr’s most recognizable #menswear figures included men like Nick WoosterLawrence Schlossman, and Josh Peskowitz,” wrote Deleon. “Now, it’s a shiba inu named Bodhi.”

But that shiba inu gets paid.

Today Brian Trunzo, the co-owner of the New York City men’s store Carson Street Clothiers, uses the hashtag as shorthand for a style all its own. Essentially, he says, #menswear is post-lumbersexual tailoring.

“From 2007 to 2010 [we saw] the whole work-wear movement,” Trunzo tells Quartz. “You were able to tell a guy who otherwise didn’t care about fashion that he could wear a plaid work-shirt with raw denim and work-boots and look fashionable, and that was easy. … And then after that [came] the proper—as we endearingly call it—‘hashtag-menswear’ movement—of classic silhouettes, and classic tailoring,”

“And now, I think, those guys as they start to transition, they’re thinking: ‘Ok. I have my workwear denim from years ago. Tailoring is fantastic—I can always wear tailoring. What’s the next thing?'” says Trunzo. “And they’re easing into the more—I don’t want to call it experimental—but the more interesting sportswear. Things that they otherwise definitely would not have thought about years ago.”

If all else fails, menswear will flash you

Rick Owens—a talented, respected designer with a devoted following—tried a different tack this season: some strategically placed holes (NSFW) in the asymmetrical tunics and robes he sent down the runway.

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They’re behind the coats. Rick Owens, Fall/Winter 2015.
Image: AP Photo/Jacques Brinon

“It’s a little bit of juvenile transgression,” Owens told ”Boys with their dicks out is such a simple, primal, childish gesture.”

And along with Owens’ beautiful shearlings, strong-shouldered pea coats, and on-trend turtlenecks, it brought menswear a lot of attention.

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