Outerwear similarly grew more generous and leisurely, with noticeably dropped shoulders or raglan sleeves.

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Cocoon coats. From left: Public School, Assembly New York, Robert Geller.
Image: AP Photo/Mark Von Holden / Mode Public Relations / Nouveau PR

Korean brand Kye, an up-and-comer at New York Fashion Week, showed one of the most dramatic dropped shoulders of all, with the seam hitting just above the elbow.

The same trend could be seen in knitwear. Among the key items in Kanye West’s first collection for Adidas was an oversized, destroyed knit pullover.

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Those holes are supposed to be there.
Image: AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews

Public School contributed this roomy sweater.

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Layer game is on point.
Image: AP Photo/Mark Von Holden

If the runway hasn’t convinced you that the shape of men’s clothing is changing, consider that brands with more mainstream appeal are undergoing the same transformation. This past autumn, Todd Snyder introduced a suit collection at Nordstrom that featured a slightly looser fit. Snyder, if you’re not familiar with the name, oversaw the launch of J. Crew’s slim-cut, wildly popular Ludlow Suit back in 2008. In 2014, J.Crew followed up with a new fuller-cut suit, the Crosby.

That’s not to say skinny is disappearing entirely. Tim Coppens, one of the bright lights of New York menswear, is one of many designers who still works with trim looks; slim suits continue to sell well (paywall); and leg-hugging sweatpants such as those on display at Kanye West’s presentation aren’t going away just yet. It’s a new mix of proportions that’s coming into play. All skinny no longer feels fresh, and change is in the air.

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